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June 2002

DSC00992.JPG (141171 bytes)After getting the TD Home for the first time my Wife and I gave it a good bath, a liberal application of Leather Cleaner to renew the Leather, Silicon Spray to renew the rubberDSC00996.JPG (139641 bytes) parts, and Engine Degreaser.  The ballast resistor feed wire was wrapped with a chromed plastic spiral wire loom, which I wanted to replace with a black plastic split loom.  On removing the chrome loom, I was shocked to see the wire has burned all the insulation off.  Following the wire back into the main wiring harness, which DSC01017.JPG (144940 bytes)was split open (I keep a pair of medical bandage scissors in my tool box for cutting electrical tape looms) and the damage assessed, repairs made and the wires insulation cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.  The entire assembly was re-taped (I should have used non-adhesive tape but at 11 PM on a Saturday Evening I just reached for my trusty roll of black electrical tape) and placed in a split plastic loom.  At this time I decided to re-engineer the electrical.  DSC01018.JPG (139690 bytes)I relocated the ballast resistor to a location that would allow full contact of its heat sink to the chassis for better cooling, reworked the turn signal to remove the screws and the rubber grommet providing short circuit protection, added an auxiliary fuse block to keep DSC01020.JPG (141236 bytes)anything I may add from being a mobile short circuit, and finished the driving/fog light circuits with relays (see my comments on auxiliary lighting).  I then replaced the rotor, cap, points and condenser, cleaned the plugs, and took it to a localDSC01026.JPG (137998 bytes) gathering of British Cars.  I noticed that the ammeter was showing a constant 15 Amp charge.  Evidently whatever took out the ballast resistor input lead insulation probably hit the voltage regulator, and probably the coil.  After ordering replacement parts for these items, and a nDSC01025.JPG (136758 bytes)ew fan belt, the car is now in a reasonable shape electrically considering its using Lucas Parts!   See the shots below for the after effects.
On the immediate left you see the results of the harness repair.  Consult the photos page for more photos and a close-up of the way I hid the fog and driving lamp switches.

 


July 2002

 The Dash is a wonderful piece of 3/8" solid walnut with a beautiful grain figuring. You can see the thickness DSC00997.JPG (139832 bytes)from the under dash view picture above.  When I got the car, the walnut was a pale almost tan, but after three coats of boiled linseed oil, it came back to some of the nicest wood I have seen.  This winter, I plan to pull the dash apart, and I will put a high gloss polyurethane finish on it to protect and make it shine.  I removed the mix mash of switches that were under to control the DSC01014.JPG (145558 bytes)driving/fog lights which didn't work anyway.  Above you see the replacement SPDT Center Off switches I installed.  I tucked them up under the dash on the left so they wouldn't be noticeable, yet convenient to operate.  These switches actuate relays that switch the lights.  See my article on auxiliary lighting to discuss the actual hook-up and my reasons why I do it that way.  I also adjusted the steering wheel which was pushed all the way forward.  Next mirrors, and a new Tonneau Cover, and new rubber pedal pads.  A few other bits and pieces, and it is starting to look like a new car.

Miscellaneous Ramblings

  • Wouldn't you know it the turn signal switch didn't work from the first time out.  I checked the prices, and it from Moss, and it costs a fortune ($230+).  I found an article that helped me fix it, but my problem is the little leather ring.  So I am working on another solution.

 

  • The modifications made or planned to be made to my 1952 MG TD will bring it closer to a MKII from the TD2 that it is.  With the 5 speed conversion, the performance will be better in 1-4 than the MKII because of the lower rear-end, while maintaining the top end final drive ratio since 5th is an overdrive.  The twin SU's are replaced with HS4's and there is some head work done, using the MKII stellite Valves, 150lb valve springs and increasing the compression ratio to the MKII's 8.6.  While my TD2 will still be a TD2 for most purposes I consider it a MK1.75.  I have yet to decide whether to add the extra fuel pump at this time, or just use the single SU and a banjo style feeder.  The jury is still out on the Moss rear seal kit since I will be down there anyway.

Stay tuned for this saga as we begin the modification to get Brooke to become Brooke the Mighty (in deference to M'GILLICUDDY the Mighty)

Last modified: April 26, 2005

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